tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2550999957785524012024-03-05T07:24:07.112+02:00Under our own olive treeNani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.comBlogger406125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-6045608692495392642015-03-16T16:04:00.000+02:002015-03-17T07:14:25.093+02:00Changes to this blog<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">For the past couple of months, this blog morphed into a bit of a mommy blog with loads and loads of portraits of my kids. I realised that I missed sharing snippets of our lives, our attempts to be tourists in our own town and our travels to other parts of the country and sometimes even the rest of the globe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In an effort to bring back the joy and excitement this blog provided to me in the past, I've decided to split this blog into two parts. From now on, the portraits of the kids will live on a brand new blog, called Daniel & Emma : a Mother's Journal. Original, huh? :-) You can link to the website <a href="http://danielandemmaamothersjournal.blogspot.com/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>. All the kiddie posts previously posted on this blog will be deleted and transferred to their new home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">On this blog I will still tell you about the places we are lucky enough to visit, celebrate this city we live in and make recommendations for things to do with kids around here. I would love to hear your opinions and recommendations on the direction this blog could/should take, so feel free to leave a comment or send me a mail.</span></div>
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<br />Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-7441874484917151962014-09-03T09:57:00.000+02:002014-09-03T09:57:10.328+02:00A unexpected travel highlight<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The town of Baeza turned out to be one of the more memorable
experiences of our trip to Andalucía. We arrived during the siesta time on a
Saturday afternoon, which meant that the two of us were almost the only people
walking the streets of the sleepy town. We saw a couple of men at the local bar,
but that seemed to be all the excitement the town had to offer. Suddenly, on
our way back to the car, three girls dressed in traditional Spanish dresses
came down the road. We stuck around a bit longer and through sheer luck
happened upon a small local pilgrimage. It was in honour of Our Lady of the
Rosel, the patron saint of La Yedra - a hamlet of Baeza. A long procession
of carts, horses, tractors, all decorated for the occasion, and pilgrims walked
with the Virgin to her shrine. Apparently the origin of the worship
goes back to Arab times. All of a sudden we were in the middle of all the
local festivities, being bombarded with colour and gaiety all around us.
We also took to the streets, joined the procession and listened to the locals
singing various festive songs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I felt honoured to be there, because here was the ‘real’ Andalucía,
hidden in plain sight from the tourists, but allowing us to witness again the
true reason why we travel: not to visit those sights that are packaged for the
tourists, but to see those things that authentically broaden our horizons.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Image credits: Most of these photos were taken by my sister, Elanie Fourie</span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-55082668227993537202014-09-01T07:17:00.000+02:002014-09-01T07:17:18.698+02:00Andalucía - travel memories<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In our house, we are avid fans of the Tour de France and would
normally move heaven and earth to see as much of Le Tour on the TV as possible.
For the past couple of years we started to follow the Giro d'Italia, but surprisingly,
we have never watched the Vuelta a España, the big cycling tour of Spain. Maybe
the TV coverage is move extensive this year, I guess. Anyway, this past week
the riders covered a lot of ground in the area of Andalucía in the South of
Spain. They started in Jerez and cycled through towns such as Rhonda, Cordoba
and Granada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">All the beautiful sights on TV made me rather nostalgic. In
2006, pre-baby for me and pre-marriage for my sister, the two of us set off for
Spain. We hired a car in Malaga and for the next 10 days we made funny and heart-warming
memories travelling through Andalucía. Elanie’s suitcase did not arrive in
Malaga and for the first three days she wore my clothes – we look like twins in
my standard strappy-top-and-khaki-shirt holiday outfits. We were bitten by
bedbugs in a really nice youth hostel in Seville, ate delicious ice cream in Puerto
Banus, leant how to drive like the Spaniards (hanging out the winding and
shouting “pasar, pasar” while we try to read our inadequate maps) and got tipsy
in 45 degrees Celsius (the sherry houses in Jerez are not shy when they pour
tasters). Whereas Elanie loved the warm weather I actually started to cry in
Cordoba because of the heat, but it was still one of the most incredible places
I’ve ever been. We saw row upon row of olive trees, watched the Andalusian
horses dance, drank lots of Lemon Kass, stumbled on a local pilgrimage in a small
town and watched locals playing and dancing the flamenco. The trip was also
special for another reason. The age difference between Elanie and me is five
years and before this trip that gap meant that we lived our separate lives far
from each other, but this trip cemented a friendship beyond just sisterly love.
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">So, I dusted off the hard drive with the pho</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">tos of our trip
and thought I’ll share a few of those memories with you….</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Image credits: We downloaded all our photos to one place, but I am pretty sure most of these ones (especially the really nice ones) were taken by Elanie. </span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-10971383960334122002014-08-11T13:17:00.001+02:002014-08-11T13:17:43.296+02:00Fourways Farmers Market<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In the last couple of years, Johannesburg has really caught the outdoor market bug. It’s not surprising either, given that for too long, relaxing away from your home was basically either limited to walking up and down a mall, or otherwise taking quite a drive out of town. Now, places like Arts on Main, the Neighbourgoods Market and the Bryanston Organic Market are stepping into this gap, and doing it Jozi style!<br /><br />A few Sunday’s ago, we packed the kids in the car and drove to Fourways to have lunch at what, at least in our opinion, may be one of the best of the markets - the Fourways Farmers Market. It is located opposite Montecasino and forms part of the Earth Outdoor Living Nursery. The nursery offers a spacious outdoor venue under big trees, and with bunting all over and hay bales scattered on the grass, it all works together to create a lovely, quaint country setting. The stalls offer organic and local produce and we were super impressed with the variety and quality on offer. Add to that the craft beer and bubbles, live music and the kiddies play area, and you have the recipe for a lovely ways to spend an morning in Johannesburg!</span><div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can read more about the market <a href="http://www.ffmarket.co.za/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>, or like their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TheFourwaysFarmersMarket"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Facebook page</span></a>.</span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-3741499412921121812014-08-07T12:18:00.000+02:002014-08-07T12:18:16.205+02:00Hot air ballooning in Cappadocia<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Cappadocia is a place with many appealing activities for tourists, but in all probability nothing compares to the magical experience of hot air ballooning over this truly unique landscape. Having gotten up early – no, really, when did you last set you alarm for 3:30 AM?? - our balloon slowly rose into the sky just as the sun began to rise. Surrounded in the air by more than 70 multi-coloured balloons, we floated up to a height of 1000 feet. The haunting panorama beyond consisted of the snow-capped mountains in the distance (the same ancient volcanoes responsible for the eroded volcanic ash below) and the vast valleys between them. The magical landscape of gorges dotted with mushroom shaped fairy chimneys, rock villages and caves in the mountainsides was even more surreal from the air. Our pilot took us down into the valley, almost touching the grape vines and apricot trees below and floating so close to the valley walls that we could peek into the pigeon holes. For more than an hour, we drifted in a stillness that was as much a result of the windless Turkish morning as it was of our own silent awe. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Bucket list stuff....</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To read all my Turkey blogs, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>. </span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-59003813441402917632014-08-06T12:20:00.000+02:002014-08-07T12:04:21.808+02:00Cappadocia<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I’ve been meaning to write this blog about the second part of our trip to Turkey for a while now, but it is such a daunting task to try and capture all that we saw and experienced in this one place on a blog post. Even now, thinking back to our couple of days in Cappadocia, it is amazing how much we saw and how much we learned about a place that we did not even knew existed until we started researching Turkey as a travel destination.<br /><br />In the middle of Central Anatolia there is a geological oddity of valleys created by the volcanic outbursts of three mountains in the area. Over millions of years erosion by water, wind and changes in temperature fashioned a landscape of remarkable fairy chimneys and honeycombed hills. Because of the softness of the stone, people built underground cities, cave houses and rock-cut churches. Today, many of these caves are converted into boutique hotels and we booked into one of them for our time in Cappadocia.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The human history here is as fascinating as the weird landscape. We visited underground cities built in 2000 BC by the Hittites to escape Persian raiders. These same cities were used again, this time by Christians in the 4th century AD when they tried to escape Roman persecution. The area boasts hundreds of hidden chapels carved into the rocks, many with colourful frescoes, built by the early Christians.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">We also visited sleepy ghost towns in the area made infamous by Turkey’s more modern, and extremely fascinating history. Just after Ataturk became President of Modern Turkey in 1920’s , the controversial population exchange between Greece and Turkey took place. Greek speaking communities from Anatolia (and the towns we visited in Cappadocia) were shipped to Greece and Muslim residents from Greece were transferred to Turkey to make a new living in the houses left empty by the departing Greeks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sitting in my living room six months ago and discussing my ‘travel bucket list’, Cappadocia would not have been on it; in fact I had encountered the word in only one place before, and that is in an epistle of Paul in the Bible. Now, afterwards, it is easily in the top 10 of my travel memories. Why? In the end I think it’s because the place delivers a triple impact: here, away from European-looking and cosmopolitan Istanbul, you get Turkish food and culture, coupled with the place’s ancient history, coupled with the truly unique natural landscape. Not to mention the hot air ballooning in the area ... but more about that tomorrow!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">To read all my Turkey blogs, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-1709710310924336752014-07-24T08:26:00.000+02:002014-07-24T08:40:53.550+02:00Le Tour<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This is not often a very ‘here are some pictures of my family’ blog, but today I am happy to make the exception. Recently, on a family trip to my parents’ home, we took the opportunity to surprise Daniel with a Tour de France-themed party for his seventh birthday – a sort of family-only pre-birthday bash.<br /><br />And it turned out beautifully, mainly thanks to my sister who made everyone wear cycling kit, who served the drinks in bidons, who helped me make the Tour jerseys bunting, and who gave Daniel almost a dozen little cycling themed gifts to unwrap.<br /><br />Add to that an awesome (no, really awesome, you should have seen the stitching detail that was added to the icing) yellow jersey cake that my mum procured, and you have the makings of a very surprised, loved, and happy little boy – making us smile at a seven year old who knows how to incorporate the words “gruppetto” and “mountain top finish” into normal conversation!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Image credits: Elanie Fourie and Callie Fourie</span></div>
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-39774263873670633002014-07-21T19:40:00.000+02:002014-07-21T19:40:21.789+02:00When in Istanbul ..... the bazaars<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">No trip to Istanbul would be complete without a visit to the colourful labyrinth of shops and alleys of the world famous Grand Bazaar and the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar. What you heard is true - this is the world of the pushy salesman. And it does not start when you enter the bazaar. Oh, no. As you walk in the streets around the big tourist sights, you are often approached by overenthusiastic carpet touts who, with a reply on his “excuse me,” immediately tells you that he has been to or wants to visit South Africa or my favourite, South Africans bring him luck (one even invited us to come and have a look at his collection of Deon Meyer books :-), at which point he then offers to take you to his brother’s or cousin’s or friend’s store just around the corner. <br /><br />Sidestepping all of them, we managed to enter the Bazaar on our own, determined to haggle with the best of them. The main street of the Bazaar is home to jewellery shops, and here the shop owners do not call out to the people passing their shops. I was a bit surprised at how modern and organised it all looked. But it did not take long for us to get lost in the alleyways, all of a sudden being bombarded with shopkeepers wanting our money. It’s at this point that the size of the bazaar dawned on us. Dating back to 1461 the Grand Bazaar has over 60 different streets housing more than 4000 shops under a chaotic red tile roof (remember that scene in Skyfall when James Bond chased the baddie on the motorbike?) At its height, during the 17th-18th centuries, the bazaar was bigger, better and more important than any market in Europe. Shop after shop after shop sells carpets, leather goods, “real” fake bags from all the big fashion houses (I mentioned the word “Birken” to my husband in an Afrikaans conversation and the nearest salesman immediately told me had stock :-)!), really great antiques, silk scarves and Turkish delights. My favourite item was the beautiful Turkish bath towels – I was willing to buy a second suitcase to fill it with the beautiful towels, but alas, sanity prevailed!<br /><br />We left the Grand Bazaar and the nearby Spice Bazaar (much smaller with a focus on foodie stuff) without buying anything, but we had a great time. The extremely endearing Ali who wanted to sell me a leather jacket and who tried to convince me he does not like profit (he started with a price of 1200 Turkish Lira and even before I entered negotiations he brought his price down to 300 Turkish Lira!), will forever be one of my favourite travel memories of Istanbul.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To read all my Turkey blog posts, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-79757257991417863102014-07-20T11:23:00.000+02:002014-07-20T11:23:20.076+02:00When in Istanbul ..... Topkapi Palace<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I’d never heard of the Topkapi Palace before. It was only when I starting researching Istanbul that I learned about this residence of the Ottoman Sultans. The first stage of this expansive palace was built in the 1450’s and it was only in 1909 that it was officially abandoned by the sultan’s women and their servants. During that period, the empire was run from here and it was home to the Imperial Treasury. Today you can still visit the incredible collection of precious objects and jewels, including an 86-carat diamond. A collection of imperial robes is housed in one section of the palace, and arms and armour in another. I was intrigued by the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms, home to some of the most sacred relics in the Muslim world. It housed objects like a cloak of Muhammad, his swords, one tooth, a hair of his beard and an autographed letter. <br /><br />The highlight of the palace, however, is the Harem - the private rooms of the sultan, the imperial princes, his wives, concubines, servants and black eunuchs. The amazing building with its labyrinthine corridors held so much history and intrigue. Islamic law allowed the sultan to have four legitimate wives and as many concubines that he had the means to support. All the slaves were foreigners as Islam forbade enslaving Muslims. When they entered the Harem, they were educated in Islam and Turkish culture and then the competition started. They all wanted the favour of the sultan’s mother, the most powerful women in the Harem. She controlled access to her son and the girls dreamt of giving the Sultan a son and maybe even marriage. <br /><br />The decorated rooms, many in iznik tiles, some even in Delft, are beautiful and I loved the feminine touch evident in this part of the palace. <br /><br />Just a word of advice if you want to visit: Go as early as possible in the morning and allow at least half a day to visit. It becomes very crowded, but it is absolutely worth it. One of the highlights of the trip for me!</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To read all my Turkey blog posts, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-13276788703665648312014-07-18T21:08:00.000+02:002014-07-18T21:08:22.477+02:00When in Instanbul ..... sail the Bosphorus<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Istanbul is vast, and it would take you a couple of weeks to take it all in properly. Part of the ‘problem’ is the fact that it straddles two continents, with the Bosphorus channel in between. At its narrowest point it’s probably only a kilometre across, which becomes relevant when you consider that this is southern Russia’s ONLY sea link to the outside world. The volume of commercial traffic that goes through this tiny sliver of sea is quite astonishing; the strategic importance of this channel is beyond description. It also makes the volume of boat traffic that criss-crosses these waters slightly…nerve wrecking, with tiny sail boats literally dodging and playing chicken with the biggest of oil tankers. <br /><br />With only a couple of days in the city and so many interesting sights to see in central Istanbul, a boat trip on the Bosphorus was therefore the perfect way to view a bit more of the city. We boarded the boat in Sultanahmet with beautiful views of all the old monuments, including the Topkapi Palace, the Aya Sofya and the imposing Suleymaniye Mosque. We went under the Galata Bridge along the Golden Horn and watched as the locals caught fish from the bridge. The huge passenger liners docked next to the Istanbul Modern art museum dwarfed our little boat by comparison. We sailed alongside all the super glamorous nightclubs in Besiktas and the beautiful waterside wooden summer residences built by the Ottoman aristocracy. In the end, the famous sights, such as the Dolmabahce Palace, the Bosphorus Bridge and the various fortresses were imposing, but it was seeing the locals sitting at trendy waterside restaurants or families eating ice cream on the waterfront that made us want to go back to Istanbul one day to explore some of these smaller fishing villages. One day we might….</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To read all my Turkey blogs, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-25546793242131298652014-07-08T11:43:00.001+02:002014-07-08T11:43:59.384+02:00When in Istanbul ..... mosques<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The beautiful skyline of Istanbul is punctuated by the endless minarets of the more than 3000 mosques in the city. The muezzin of every mosque used to climb the minaret so that their voices could be heard over a wider area. These days, loudspeakers spare them the climb. Walking around Sultanahmet, it seemed to me that the call to prayer ricocheted from one mosque to another as it echoed across the city. <br /><br />The most famous mosque in Istanbul is the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, sitting across a landscaped park opposite the Aya Sofya. It was completed in the 1600’s (again, building it took only 8 years!) and is recognised by its six minarets. The story goes that traditionally a sultan’s mosque had four minarets, but Sultan Ahmet ordered six 210-foot high minarets. That led to accusations of sacrilege, since only Islam’s holiest mosque in Mecca had six. To avoid any scandal the Sultan agreed to pay for the addition of a seventh minaret in Mecca. <br /><br />We entered the mosque on a Friday just as the worshippers left, and entered the very crowded courtyard. The perfectly symmetrical curved domes of the building was a beautiful sight and I wished for a wide-angle lens :-)! Inside the interior is covered with predominantly blue tile work from the town Iznik, giving the mosque its nickname, the Blue Mosque.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Even though this is the most visited and well known mosque in the city, it turned out not to be the most special one we went to, probably because it sits smack in the middle of the Hippodrome / Aya Sofya / Topkapi complex, where it almost seems like the exception to spot a local amongst the tourists. It was the largest of Istanbul’s mosques that turned out to be my favourite. The imposing Süleymaniye Mosque, commissioned by Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent was competed in 1557. The mosque sits high on a hill with a commanding view of the Golden Horn and beyond. This one, closer to the university and with its working annexes (a madrassa and a hospital amongst others) gave much more of a feel for the way its designers intended it to be in atmosphere. We sat down on the red carpet for a bit, glad to escape the hordes of crowds in the Blue Mosque and spend time learning about the symbolism and the history of what, to us, is an unknown architectural form.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The last mosque we could make time for was a tiny, under visited and somewhat hidden mosque, also covered in Iznik tiles, called the Rustem Pasa Mosque. It seems wedged into a busy shopping district close the Spice Bazaar, and had a much more intimate feel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Visiting these mosques, each of which shared the same elements – oriented towards Mecca, with its minarets for the call to prayer, the minbar and the mihrab – it struck us that each of them also speaks of history, power, politics. The tiles used were symbols of wealth, the size of the dome was an overt effort by the Sultan to comply with the religious requirements while getting as close as his treasury allowed to the dimensions of the Aya Sofya and the number of minarets could cause serious international scandal. A bit like the cathedrals in Europe, actually, just framed for a different context. It reminded us of how history repeats itself and how human nature is shared across barriers of religion and culture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">To see all the Turkey blog posts, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-75689120858658401862014-07-07T07:43:00.000+02:002014-07-07T07:43:25.145+02:00When in Istanbul .....Aya Sofya<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After spending our first day in the more modern part of Istanbul, it was time to follow the tourists to Sultanahmet, the historic neighbourhood on the other side of the Golden Horn River. It was home to Byzantine emperors and Ottoman Sultans and today it is the most visited area in Istanbul with the highest concentration of historic sights. Standing on a Friday afternoon on Sultanahmet Square with the Aya Sofya on the one side and the Blue Mosque on the other, listening to the extremely loud call to prayer over the loudspeakers is one of those travel experiences that I will always treasure. <br /><br />The massive dome of the Aya Sofya was our first stop in this part of the city. This Greek Orthodox church was built in 527 on the remains of two earlier versions of the Aya Sofya and its dome is so big that it was only matched in size by anything almost a 1000 years later (there is graffiti on the walls that can be dated back to Viking mercenaries serving the emperor in the 900's!). What impressed us most was that this massive building was completed in only seven years!! The church reigned as the greatest church in Christendom but was ransacked by Crusader armies in 1204 and a lot of the church treasures are now in St Marks Basilica in Venice. In 1453 the Turks finally conquered Constantinople and transformed the church into a mosque. Most of the Christian paintings were removed or covered in plaster due to the Islamic prohibition of figurative imagery, but depictions of Jesus and Mary were left intact. For the next 500 years the building was used as a mosque until the 1920’s when the Turkish president, Ataturk secularized the building and turned it into a museum.<br /><br />On a personal note, I found it difficult to relate to the building. On the walls a Madonna and Child image was flanked by huge medallions with Arabic script praising the names of Allah and Muhammad. It is amazing that the building has importance for both Islam and Christianity and that the two co-exist in this museum, but I found the building devoid of life and lacking any atmosphere. Nevertheless, I was mesmerised by its fascinating history and felt privileged to visit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">PS. On a bit of a side note, we were very happy with our hotel choice again and can really recommend it. <a href="http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">The Hotel Armada</span></a> has a wonderful rooftop terrace with views of the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofya and the sea. A bit of an uphill hike to the main tourist area, but one has to walk off all those dondurma ice creams!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Find all my blogs about Turkey <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span></div>
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-10227363433795676962014-07-04T08:21:00.000+02:002014-07-04T14:30:08.996+02:00When in Istanbul ..... Beyoğlu<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I don’t really know what I expected Istanbul to look like. Middle Eastern, I guess, knowing that it is a predominantly Muslim country. What we found was, in many respects, a delightful surprise. We spent our first day and night in Istanbul in Beyoğlu, a cosmopolitan area on the European side of Istanbul that reminds you of Paris or Barcelona, all cobbles and vintage-looking apartments built on the side of the hill. We promenaded with the locals down Istiklal Street from Taksim Square all the way down to the Galata tower, stopping at nargile cafes to sip apple tea and watch the locals play backgammon. We smiled at the dondurma sellers teasing their customers and throwing in a bit of entertainment in with the chewy Turkish ice cream. We made way for the historic tram to rattle past us and took small detours to the Flower Passage and the fish market. Just below the Galata Tower, a sort-of non-descript café entrance led, via an elevator, to the most amazing rooftop lunch view possible. In the forefront, it was all European rooftops, in the middle distance, the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, with its endless churn of boats in every size. And then off in the distance, the amazing Bosphorus bridge to the left and Sultanahmet – you could instantly see why armies had wanted that patch of land since the year 300AD. In the evening we joined the tourists and locals in the cobbled side streets of Istiklal and had mezzes at one of the restaurants in the vibey Nevizade Street. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">PS. If you find yourself in Beyoğlu, we can really recommend the hotel we slept in – </span><a href="http://peradays.com/" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Peradays</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> is a modern small hotel with very chic rooms and a killer breakfast! All within a two-minute walk from Istiklal Street. The neighbouring hotel, the </span><a href="http://www.armadapera.com/pg_en/" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Armada Pera Hotel</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">, was our second choice and we did end up at their sister hotel in the old city for the rest of our visit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a> for all my Turkey blogs.</span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-57405189623758619262014-07-03T12:55:00.000+02:002014-07-03T12:59:42.100+02:00Hello Istanbul<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">It seems I’ve lost my blogging mojo!! It’s been five weeks since my previous post. But what better way to get back on the wagon than sharing the photos from our trip a week or two ago to Turkey. <br /><br />My husband and I roped the grandparents in for a week of babysitting and the two of us slipped away to spend four days in Istanbul and three days in Cappadocia, in the centre of Turkish Anatolia. <br /><br />We arrived by plane in Istanbul to see this beautiful city with its famous skyline sitting on top of seven hills. It was basking in beautiful sunlight and from the air we saw the Bosphorus and Golden Horn rivers splitting the city into two, making this the only city in the world that spans over two continents. On the one side is the Marmara Sea and on the other the Black sea. We saw modern skyscrapers and endless minarets, including the famous ones of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya. On the Bosphorus we saw the big oil tankers from the Baltic Countries, small tourist boats and many ferries crossing over to the other continent. <br /><br />Once we started exploring we were immediately overwhelmed by the incredible history of the place. Over the past 16 centuries, Istanbul has been the capital of four empires and probably one of the most fought-over patches of land on the planet.<br /><br />For the next couple of days we (my husband and his good memory must help to tell this story) will take you on a trip with us to relive every day that we spend in this truly interesting, rich in history, city that is Istanbul.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> To see all my Turkey posts, click <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/search/label/Turkey"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span><br />
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-64245216989717556392014-05-26T12:45:00.000+02:002014-05-26T12:45:43.937+02:00When in Durban ..... the Factory Cafe<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Another quirky coffee experience while in Durban started with us following the GPS into an industrial section of town. We stopped the car outside an old 1930’s factory building and walked the stairs up to the first floor and location of the Colombo Coffee Roastery. Inside, with all the working equipment is a large industrial space that doubles as a music venue and has even hosted a few weddings. We stopped for breakfast at their in-house coffee bar, the Factory Cafe. <br /><br />Afterwards I read a bit more about the history of the place. It started with a man called James Brown Richardson, an Australian who moved to South Africa early in the 1910’s. He was employed by Thornton Tea and Coffee, but during his service in WW1, the company went under and on his return he opened his own shop in Johannesburg in 1917, providing tea and coffee to the miners. But during the Rand rebellion and the strikes by the miners, he was forced to pack up. He moved to Durban and established the Colombo Tea Agency with his son in 1923. <br /><br />Now many, many years later, Colombo Coffee can still be tasted in many of Durban’s coffee shops.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can read more about them on their <a href="http://www.colombo.co.za/pages/factory-cafe"><span style="color: #7f6000;">website</span></a> or like their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/thefactorycafe"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Facebook page</span></a>.</span><br />
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-12035494931068080162014-05-20T16:20:00.000+02:002014-05-20T16:22:32.895+02:00When in Durban ..... Freedom Cafe<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">After spending some quiet quality time together as a family in the Karkloof forest, it was time to liven things up a bit. We opted for Durban and added a couple of days of Durbs-by-the sea to our breakaway. Our first stop was for lunch at the very funky and fun Freedom Café, tucked away down a side street in the Greyville area. The café is inside a fire-engine red shipping container, with glass and mirror walls, funky chairs and overall quirky décor. You have to smile at the elongated sausage dog benches and salt & pepper holders, and of course the bright pink flamingos in the flower boxes. Deckchairs and tables outside are sheltered by big trees. My linguini with sweetcorn, leak and bacon was absolutely divine, and my husband’s pulled pork was served in a brioche bun (Can anything be a let-down if served with brioche?). If was a great lunch and fun afternoon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can visit their website <a href="http://www.tastefreedom.co.za/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a> or like their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/freedomcafedurban"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Facebook page</span></a>.</span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-21180422162342379922014-05-19T09:47:00.002+02:002014-05-19T09:47:28.343+02:00Deep inside the Karkloof forest<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">A few weeks ago we left the city for a couple of days to spend some time in the Kwazulu-Natal Midlands. We rented a remote house deep inside the Karkloof Nature Reserve, the second largest indigenous forest in South Africa. As you drive upward from the farmlands below, the landscape changes from European looking pastoral charm into jungle within the space of a few meters, and just as suddenly you are transported into a different world of light and shadow, of stillness and forest sounds, of cold and warmth. This charming cabin in the woods clings for dear life to the banks of a small stream and stands in the shade of majestic black and yellow stinkwood trees. Early mornings we made coffee only to get back into bed (with electrical blankets!) to read while Emma took her morning nap. Our days were spent hiking through the forest all along the stream to the close-by waterfalls, sidestepping all the spider webs in the paths, clambering up and over fallen logs covered in moss. Daniel loved stepping on stones to cross the river while Emma watched the world go by from her elevated position on her daddy’s back. We saw monkeys roaming the trees high above our heads, bushbuck darting away as we approached and numerous butterflies searching out the sun spots beneath the canopy. High up in the kloof evening arrives early, and then it becomes time to curl up in front of the fireplace, play Scrabble and eat too much chocolate. It was, for too short a time, something we have forgotten how to do well a little bit: a truly restful holiday.</span><br /><br />
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<br />Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-25809602407356710122014-04-18T18:05:00.000+02:002014-04-18T18:06:19.232+02:00Kamers 2014 Easter in Johannesburg<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I received an invite to attend <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/2011/11/kamers-vol-geskenke-pure-gorgeousness.html"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Kamers Vol Geskenke</span></a> earlier today. Kamers is a pop-up retail market that showcases local creativity and talent with high-end craft goods, the finest deli-products and live music. This was their Easter in Johannesburg show (the first ever in Joburg and from what I saw today, definitely not the last!).<br /><br />The location for this weekend’s event was the The Forum Office Park in Bryanston, and what a great location. I loved the outside area under a big marquee tent with people sitting on the grass, having lunch, a glass of wine and listening to live music. Matthew Mole was an absolute hit! <br /><br />Inside the traders were doing brisk business. As always, the stalls included jewellery, gourmet products, ceramics, soft furnishings, tableware, décor accessories, clothing, babywear and stationery. I loved the food and <a href="http://roastrepublic.wordpress.com/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">coffee stand</span></a> run by Seline and Leandri Van der Wat (the two celebrity sisters from Masterchef fame), the absolutely stunning stationary from <a href="http://www.papertraildesign.co.za/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Papertrail</span></a> and graphic design company <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ilovemstudio"><span style="color: #7f6000;">M.Studio</span></a>'s pretty stand.<br /><br />What finally stood out for me about this day was a hard to define atmosphere that made this event different from previous ones I attended. Previously, for me at least, it was a merchandising event - great shopping, then having a great lunch in a pretty setting to refuel before hitting the stalls again. This time the experience was more…whole. The shopping was still great and wonderful wares were on offer, but I got the impression people lingered more. It had a more relaxing, market day feel to it. Maybe it is the location, maybe it is the number of men that came with their wives this year :-) or maybe it is just me. But the atmosphere was brilliant and I am tempted to go back again and this time take my baby-sitting husband along….</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can read more about the event on their <span style="color: #7f6000;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Kamersvol"><span style="color: #7f6000;">Facebook page</span></a>.</span></span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-1337941909267768722014-04-01T17:01:00.004+02:002014-04-01T17:01:42.338+02:00The Lion Park<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">This is a long overdue post and I only remembered to write it because my computer complained about space on my hard drive. So, going through the photo folders I was reminded of an outing that I wanted to blog about.<br /><br />At the end of last year my brother, his wife and their baby boy surprised my parents with a visit all the way from France. They timed it to be here for my parent’s 40 years of Transkaroo party (see <a href="http://underourownolivetree.blogspot.com/2013/11/40-years-of-transkaroo-celebration.html"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>). On their last day in South Africa before flying back, we played tourist and visited the Lion Park just outside Johannesburg.<br /><br />This park is neither a wild life reserve, nor is it a zoo. Maybe it is a bit of both, actually. It offers you the chance to go on game drives in your own car through the park and through six carnivore camps. We saw lions, wild dogs and cheetahs, but it was the white lions that really captivated us. It is very thrilling to be so close to these amazing creatures, even though we visited during the middle of the day while most of the lions were lounging in the shade of the trees taking afternoon naps. The other activity that is great (and probably explains why this park is the no 1 tourist attraction in Johannesburg) is the opportunity to interact with the lion cubs. The cubs, aged 3-6 months, are in an enclosure and visitors are allowed to go in and touch them. Giraffes roam the park freely and visitors can feed them (not my cup of tea – that long slimy, sandpapery tongue dripped with drool!!) <br /><br />Because it is such a popular tourist destination, and since we are fortunate enough to be only a couple of hours away from amazing wild life parks with the change to see lions in their natural habitat, I expected the park to be very touristy and slightly boring. But it turned out to be a very enjoyable experience and we had a fantastic time. It is definitely worthwhile to take your out-of-town visitors there.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can visit their website <a href="http://www.lion-park.com/"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a> or like their Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lionpark"><span style="color: #7f6000;">page</span></a>.</span></div>
Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-15481202561070235002014-03-26T09:25:00.000+02:002014-03-30T09:46:28.394+02:00Daleah's in Braamfontein<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">It’s been ages since we’ve been to Braamfontein and this past weekend we decided to go for a brunch in the area. We ended up in front of the bright green building in De Beer street that houses Daleah’s, a popular eatery. Inside we found a lovely, cosy interior with face brick walls, wood tables, art works on the walls and an oversized daily-menu chalkboard. We had french toast and crumpets and very good coffee. A good start to the weekend.</span><br />
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-30613268008657393582014-03-19T09:30:00.000+02:002014-03-20T11:44:45.004+02:00When Two Becomes Three<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">My sister and her husband became the parents to Rian Erasmus Fourie on Monday the 10th of March 2014. These photos are from a four-day visit I had the privilege of making to the brand new family during their first week together. It was beautiful to see how this life-changing experience created a new bond between husband and wife, between parent and child. I saw how a new mom learns what love means by caring for a helpless new-born: swaddling, breastfeeding, and learning that it is hard to put a baby to sleep and even harder to keep him awake to feed him! How a new dad grows into his new role by being in charge of laundry (lots of it!) and shopping and making tea (lots of it!). I saw little Rian’s first bath at home (in the kitchen zinc), his first outing snugly against his dad for a walk, and meeting his grandparents. I saw friends coming over to meet the young man, bringing meals and (always!) the celebratory bubbly. I saw a new chapter in history being written before my eyes, and for four days the everyday things of this new life were infused with eternal things and lasting meaning.</span><br />
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-24703025680481840352014-02-19T11:54:00.000+02:002014-02-19T11:54:46.968+02:00A boy or a girl? We'll have to wait and see....<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">An old saying I’ve heard somewhere on my travels reads like this: “If you have a few true friends, a family who loves you, a roof over your head and the prospect of a meal this evening, then you are a rich man.”<br /><br />I think this sounds clichéd because it rings true.<br /><br />And I also think it was on display a few weeks ago when my sister was treated to a baby shower for her firstborn which is due in March.<br /><br />Almost fifty friends, family members and colleagues descended on Lust Bistro on the farm Vrede en Lust outside Franschhoek in a lively, chattering, loving crowd. At the end of it my lasting impression was not the small mountain of gifts that the new baby Fourie will no doubt enjoy, but that Elanie was indeed a woman of great wealth – in love and in friendship.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Image credits: Madre Steenkamp, Elanie Fourie and Nani Kornelius</span><br />
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-73272435754685335832014-01-30T11:54:00.001+02:002014-01-30T11:55:17.437+02:00Oep ve Koep in Paternoster<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">During the course of our West Coast holiday, we ventured to
Paternoster late one morning to have lunch at Die Winkel op Paternoster, better
known as Oep ve Koep. We’d read all about Chef Kobus van der Merwe, making a
name for himself as a culinary forager, each morning collecting “veldkos” on
the beach before serving his finds at lunch or supper. You will find various
edible seaweeds, dune spinach and sea lettuce on his menu. The day we visited
we tasted snoekkuite, <span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; color: #333333; line-height: 115%;">soutslaai<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span>and
summer ice plants ("vygies"). His food is beautifully presented, from
the bread starter with bokkoms flavoured butter and syrupy naartjie to the
oysters served on rocks. Edible flowers made the tomato consommé with lobster
almost too pretty to eat. Our taste buds can testify to a very interesting
culinary experience!!</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Helvetica","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You can like their Facebook page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/oepvekoep"><span style="color: #7f6000;">here</span></a>.</span>Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-81032649306486180792014-01-27T15:39:00.000+02:002014-01-27T15:39:11.549+02:00The Lighthouse at Shelley Point<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Part of our summer holidays was spent on the West Coast. It delivers the type of holiday where days are filled with walks on long stretches of beach, watching whales, dolphins and seals from the patio and counting the passing ships on the still ocean. <br /><br />Within walking distance was the Shelly Point Lighthouse. I read somewhere that when the area was bought for development, the owner, who was a very keen Lighthouse enthusiast, decided to build one. After it was privately built, it later became an official lighthouse. <br /><br />We took a stroll one morning hunting for pretty beach pebbles and shells on the sands of the lovely Shelly Bay Beach towards the lighthouse…</span><div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFF5jRKaGZJHGFolD-5vEK4RR1BIj8fiP5iLKfYTEUN50l5BfPpiJCsKHRH4jwSYApGq3WL8tY7VMrnVg06uFZgOUMySlyBP9HrLrjVWhIrwopgy7lsA1l6SdGQyYPkCI5txr66lKmiySL/s1600/2014+01+05_0531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFF5jRKaGZJHGFolD-5vEK4RR1BIj8fiP5iLKfYTEUN50l5BfPpiJCsKHRH4jwSYApGq3WL8tY7VMrnVg06uFZgOUMySlyBP9HrLrjVWhIrwopgy7lsA1l6SdGQyYPkCI5txr66lKmiySL/s1600/2014+01+05_0531.JPG" height="390" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-255099995778552401.post-27642870532949308922013-12-22T06:45:00.000+02:002013-12-22T06:45:14.826+02:00Merry Christmas<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">It is that time of the year when I just have no time to
blog but looking back at this past year, I am so grateful for all the wonderful memories. Hopefully, when the New Year starts I will be back on this blog in full swing. In
the meantime, merry Christmas to you all! <o:p></o:p><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">May you experience God’s loving embrace.</span></span></div>
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<br />Nani Korneliushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023321387146029486noreply@blogger.com0